NORWAY: DREAMING
OF THE OLD COUNTRY
In
many ways, it seems like a very long time ago and in many ways, it
was.
I have an indelible mental image of my Grandpa, Christ, “C.C.”
Grimsrud leaning back in his big gray stuffed easy chair after dinner
with a far-off look in his eyes as he spoke of the “Old Country”.
The
Old country?
My
young interest was piqued and my curiosity was stirred as my mind
searched for answers.
Where
was this Old Country?
What
was this Old Country?
Who
lived in this Old Country?
Though
the questions went unanswered, they remained alive, and my curiosity
haunted my dreams.
By
and by Grandpa passed away, but that seed of curiosity he planted
continued to live on in my mind until one day when I was middle-aged
I just had to find out about the Old Country.
How
ironic it all is now looking back over those years. As I write these
words, I realize that I am now at the age of seventy-seven. Grandpa
Christ was in his sixties when he piqued my curiosity back in the
early 1940s with his talk about the Old Country.
My
first trip to the Old Country was in 1983. I had the time and money,
and was only lacking contacts.
A
second cousin named Dee Braverman Grimsrud had contacted me in her
search for Grimsrud family information while researching the family
tree. I was surprised how very little I knew about my family history.
In corresponding with Dee she put me in contact with the Grimsrud
family in the Old Country.
Next
I sent off a letter to Kari Hoven, who I had met in 1948 when she
visited in America and spent one year with her Grimsrud relatives in
Superior, Wisconsin.
Kari
turned out to be the very best person to correspond with because of
her incredible aptitude to recall names, people, places, and dates,
plus she had an unbelievably exuberant enthusiasm. I was amazed at
the family resemblance that Kari had to my father…they could have
been twins.
Kari
remembered me, my parents, and every detail of her visit to America,
the New Country. She still had a photo of my little brother and me
from her 1948 visit.
My
wife Jane and I spent six adventuresome weeks in Norway in 1983 and
heard countless stories told by my relatives who Kari made sure we
had the opportunity to meet. We were with different groups morning,
noon, and night, every day. The quantity of coffee and open-faced
Norwegian sandwiches we consumed was unfathomable. We took notes,
kept a logbook, and took photos of nearly everyone we met and their
homes.
The
ocean and the distance that separated the Old Country and the New
Country in those days after Grandpa Christ left were more than
enormous. If you consider this, I was the very first of all of my
grandfather’s direct descendants to make a trip back to the Old
Country. Grandpa Christ left in 1896 and it wasn’t until 1983 that
I set foot upon the rock bound coast of Norway, the Old Country.
Cousin
Kari had our itinerary packed with fascinating activities and several
surprises. Among the highlights was arrangements to visit the
Grimsrud family farm. When I first set foot there I felt an immediate
connection to my roots and the Grimsrud family. Grandpa Christ had
been born there in 1879, one hundred and four years earlier. At age
16 he and his older brother Hans departed for America, the New
Country, never to return. My haunted dream had come true. I was
actually at the very spot Grandpa had spoken of when I was a child.
The loop from my childhood dream to this moment was now complete and
Grandpa’s inspiring stories were fulfilled.
Photo: Grimsrud farm in 1983.
Svein
Grimsrud and his wife Joren plus their two daughters, Wenche and
Helle gave us a grand tour filled with fascinating stories not told
by the family back in America. Helle presented us with an autographed
traditional rosemalen bowl and serving spoon she had hand
painted...we still have it.
The
lovely afternoon at the Grimsrud farm was followed by a traditional
dinner complete with aquavit. We heard more memorable stories bonding
us to family roots.
Aquavit
is a traditional Scandinavian spiced liquor with regional variations
including one made in Drammen. The nearby city of Drammen at the
headwaters of the Drammen Fjord, a branch of the great Oslo Fjord,
has a striking resemblance to my home town area of Duluth/Superior in
America. The Drammen seaport town is home to Norway’s oldest
brewery. No wonder my family landed there.
During
our lovely dinner at the Grimsrud farm we were surprised at what
happened next. My cousin Svein held up his shot glass of aquavit and
announced skål.
Everybody did the same and then tossed back the drink in one gulp. We
did the same. My eyes watered, my breath had been snatched away, and
I gasped. Several times that evening the toast was announced and
repeated by different people at the most unexpected times with the
word skål.
My family had a strong tolerance for aquavit, and we would become
acclimated to the ways of the Old Country. Svein made us feel at
home...we were happy and contented.
My
cousin Kari had another interesting surprise in store for us. We were
to walk from the Grimsrud farm through the neighboring farms and
uphill to a church and there would be a man to meet us for a guided
tour. From this old Skoger church at the hilltop we had a spectacular
view of the Grimsrud family farm. Jane and I then viewed a graphic
prospective of what past generations including my Grandpa had seen
while coming and going to this old church built at the end of the
Viking era. This church in the little town of Skoger contains
historical relics centuries old. This was the family church of my
ancestors Peder and Anne Grimsrud. The church had been built around
the years 1200-1220. The stack stone walls are nearly five feet
thick. The church is still in use. This intriguing historic place
made me dream of more ancestral questions to be answered.
Photo: Old Skoger Church circa 1200-1220
A
note about the first churches in Norway: The stone church at Skoger
was a rarity. More common were the stave wooden churches built during
1150-1350 by shipbuilding craftsmen. We were told they preserved the
timber of the trees by removing the branches and bark at the same
time adding pine pitch into a cupped out reservoir in the top while
the tree was still standing. This process took nearly two years but
made the wood impervious and those ornate wooden churches have become
the oldest wooden structures on earth. We visited several of them.
They emit the aroma of pine pitch to this day.
Photo: Stave church, Norway.
Norway
began to be Catholic because of the influence of Danish Vikings.
Norway
was the last place in Europe to accept Christianity and did it
reluctantly. Christianity transformed the Vikings of Scandinavia into
kingdoms and European assimilation. Norwegians and Swedes were not
easily duped out their Viking faith. Transition to Christianity was
primarily for political expedience because it was good business.
Vikings naturally took to violence when required. Self-aggrandizement
and wealth were their enticements. As Christians, their Viking past
was behind them.
Lutheranism arrived in the mid-1500s, and like other European countries religion was used by the ruling class for dominance.
Lutheranism arrived in the mid-1500s, and like other European countries religion was used by the ruling class for dominance.
Among the artifacts accumulated over the past thousand years in the old Skoger church was a hand-powered pipe organ, the oldest in Norway, installed in 1825, and an ornate crucifix more than 800 years old that is identical to one found in Westminster Abbey in London, England. These strange and seemingly unrelated artifacts inspired me to ask more questions. In the coming years of travels and after reading numerous books, this Viking mystery would begin to fit together like a jig-saw puzzle. The following years would lead me to discover even more links to my Viking heritage.
Our
four month long 1983 Europe trip was educational, inspiring, and
motivating. We visited strange new countries, climbed mountains, and
toured every historical point of interest possible.
I
loved what my cousin Kari had to say about the Vikings; “They were
terrible, but we loved them just the same.”
Continuing
our adventuresome travels in 1987, more mysterious surprises would
unfold. Heading for New England and the Maritime Provinces of Canada
with our new camper van in the fall, our travels took us through
America’s wine producing states of Michigan, Ohio, and New York.
What was the reason? Grapes were in season!
A
great surprise awaited us in the Maritime Provinces of Canada. In
Newfoundland, we visited the historic site of the first known Viking
settlement in North America at L’Anse aux Meadows. This wind swept
latitude at nearly 50° North has
a striking resemblance to the Norse Viking home area at 60°
North on the other side of the Atlantic. Sailing at these storm
ravaged latitudes is not for the fainthearted. Abundant fresh sea
food made the Norse Vikings happy, and they found it here.
In
1961 a Norwegian couple set out to cross the Atlantic in their
trawler type vessel searching for the ancient Viking route of Leif
Erickson to America as described in the Norse sagas. Helge Ingstad
and his wife in their historic voyage delineated their journey
identifying and describing distinctive landmarks they identified
from the Norse sagas in search of the Leif Erickson’s settlement of
Vinland. Their inspiring story was well documented in a film
at the tourist information center. The Canadian Broadcasting company
film crew, CBC, was there at the time of our visit, and when they
discovered I was following my Viking heritage they interviewed me.
The
story does not end here, the jig-saw puzzle pieces were forming an
enticing picture.
The Vikings: A New History
by Neil Oliver, an
amazing book, and the best and most comprehensive I have ever read
regarding the Vikings, was published just before the 2017 discovery
up the Hudson River in New York State of the Vinland Norse
settlement that was described in the Norse sagas.
In
his book Neil Oliver wrote: “Archaeologists
doubt that Newfoundland was the ‘Vinland’ reported by Leif
Erickson. Instead L’Anse aux Meadows is usually interpreted as a
sort of way station, a staging post used by people in transit to and
from a more fruitful settlement further south. It seems Vinland
itself still awaits discovery.”
In
2017, at Stony Point, New
York, up the Hudson River at
Minisceongo Creek between
New York City
and Poughkeepsie, the ruins
of a Viking village dating from the 9th
and 10th
centuries was
unearthed. The remains of six buildings containing an iron forage and
carpenter shop were part of the village of up to one hundred
habitats. This had to be the
Vinland
or wine land of Leif Erickson, described
in the Norse sagas. New York, is definitely wine country and this
thousand year old settlement has definitely been confirmed to be
Viking.
My
wife and I on the maiden voyage of our sailing
vessel Dursmirg passed
this very spot on our way to Florida in 1972. Our
journey is described
in our book Sailing Beyond Lake Superior: Travels of Dursmirg.
Later
in
Florida
we
met Tex
Downs who had sailed the Hudson River at Poughkeepsie, New York, and
found there
a strange coin that was identified as being Phoenician
and nearly a thousand years old.
In
the book
The
Vikings: A New History
by Neil Oliver, the
author describes finding
coins
used by the Viking
in America. “The
Scandinavian world had grown increasingly dependent upon Arab silver.
From early on the Arab Durhams were identified as containing the
purest, most desirable silver and during the decades and centuries to
come millions of the coins were funneled west. Like a supply of
oxygen, the flow of the silver helped energize the whole area,
supplying the power to create nation states.”
At
the time of the famous Norseman (Viking) Leif Erickson, the Vikings’
influence extended to Russia, Scotland, England, Spain, Greece,
Italy, and France. Leif
Erickson did indeed make it to America.
To
conclude: When I was a child my grandpa Christ started me on this
lifelong journey by planting the seeds of curiosity. The jig-saw
puzzle that followed rewarded
me and whet
my appetite for more.
The
book The
Vikings: A New History
by Neil Oliver did
the most to bring this story together and the clincher was the
discovery in 2017 of a settlement
of Vinland
up
the Hudson River near
Poughkeepsie
in
New York.
Additional reading:
Discovery of settlement in New York
https://m.thevintagenews.com/2017/01/05/new-ruins-of-viking-village-near-the-hudson-river-seriously-question-where-were-the-borders-of-the-legendary-vinland/
Additional reading:
Discovery of settlement in New York
https://m.thevintagenews.com/2017/01/05/new-ruins-of-viking-village-near-the-hudson-river-seriously-question-where-were-the-borders-of-the-legendary-vinland/
John
M. Grimsrud © 2017