Showing posts with label Gonzalo Guerrero. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gonzalo Guerrero. Show all posts

Saturday, October 24, 2020

Yucatán, the Maya, Mexico and Spanish Colonialism: Introduction and Chapter 1


Introduction

Yucatán, the Maya, Mexico and Spanish Colonialism: A six part report on how and why one stand alone Mayan faction was the only group of Indigenous in all of the Americas to hold out against Spanish conquistador colonialism. I start this report in Chetumal, State of Quintana Roo, Mexico, situated on the Caribbean Sea coast in extreme southeastern Mexico, a focal point of this history.

CHETUMAL, the state capital of Quintana Roo is a new city to the Americas and has the distinction of being the second least populated capital in all of México with nearly 200,000. It recently came into existence after many years of political strife and drawn-out war.

The history surrounding Chetumal reaches far back in time when Gonzalo Guerrero trained as a military combatant in the Spanish Inquisition era of King and Queen Ferdinand and Isabella. He fought in the bloody military action to drive the last of the Moors out of the Iberian Peninsula by 1492, ending eight centuries of Islamic occupation. Then courageous Gonzalo Guerrero took up his next position of soldier/sailor on Columbus’s first ocean crossing expedition, one of three ships aboard the small open caravel vessel named Niña.

He does not appear in the annals of history again until 1511 when Gonzalo on a September day set sail in good weather from the Gulf of Darien on the Colombian coast of South America north bound with looted treasure and slaves.

What happened next is one of the worst nightmare stories that could happen to anyone.

Gonzalo was forty years old at the time. Blasted by a fierce September hurricane his ship floundered, and he was plummeted into the sea. Aboard a makeshift raft with no food or water, Gonzalo and the seventeen men and two women survived the wrath of a hurricane that had dismasted and sunk their ship. They drifted to the Yucatán Peninsula. Gonzalo and his shipmates were taken as slaves by the local Maya.

Read the rest of Gonzalo Guerrero’s fascinating story that ultimately brought him to Chetumal next.

An examination of political maps of the America’s showing Spanish dominance since 1500 discloses the one exception to Spanish imperialistic colonial control. The Caribbean Sea coast of the Yucatán Peninsula was never conquered due to one exceptional individual who left a lasting legacy.
Before the prolonged Caste War, a British Admiralty chart of 1840 described the jungle area of the Caribbean coast of eastern Yucatán Peninsula as “Parts said to be very thinly populated”. This Mayan holdout against Spanish conquistador takeover endured through a multitude of conflicts you will next read about in the following six parts of this presentation.

IN SEARCH OF GONZALO GUERRERO, FATHER OF THE FIRST MESTIZO* Chapter one

This is a true story of an exceptional man who left a legacy enduring over centuries, from the 1400s until the present.
*(In Yucatán, Mexico, a mestizo is a person of mixed Spanish and Mayan parentage.)

Gonzalo Guerrero was trained as a Spanish military combatant. He fought with savagery having acquired the subversive military tactics of Inquisition motivated Spanish to drive the last of the Moors off of the Iberian Peninsula by 1492, which was a seven century undertaking. This ended the Islamic occupation of the Iberian Peninsula and countless bloody conflicts where the Spanish military honed and polished their crafty military tactics. They were then geared up for imperialistic colonialism and the American indigenous had no idea what awaited them.

Gonzalo Guerrero next took up a position of soldier/sailor on Columbus’s first ocean crossing expedition aboard one of three ships, the smallest an open caravel vessel named Niña.
This soldier of fortune’s story did not reappear again in the annals of history until 1511 when Gonzalo set sail in good weather from the Gulf of Darien on the Colombian north coast of South America with a cargo of looted treasure and slaves from the Inca Empire heading northbound back to his homeland in Spain.
What happened next is one of the worst nightmare stories that could happen to anyone.
Forty year-old Gonzalo was plummeted into the sea aboard a makeshift raft with no food or water, one of eighteen men and two women to survive a hurricane that had dismasted their ship and sunk it.
Only eight lived to make landfall, having to resort to cannibalism to survive.
Salvation did not happen.

The group of eight survivors were apprehended and enslaved by their Mayan Cocom captors on the Yucatán coast. The Cocom were one of twelve separate Mayan groups that never managed to unify among themselves into a nation.
Four of these survivors were sacrificed and eaten immediately. The others were caged and fattened for a future festival of flesh feasting. The fattening gave the remaining four the strength to escape to the Tutul Xiues tribe of Mayas who were enemies of the Cocom’s.
Tutul Xiues made slaves of these surviving Spaniards. Due to extreme hard work and exhaustion, only Gonzalo Guerrero and Geronimo de Aguilar survived.
Geronimo de Aguilar kept his Catholic religion and cultural ways, but Gonzalo Guerrero took up the Mayan ways and became a military adviser and trainer teaching the Maya the combat tactics he acquired in the Spanish military. This instruction would enable these Maya to remain out of the clutches of the Spanish Conquistadors for nearly five centuries.

It has been speculated that this Spanish combat training gave the Mayan people of the eastern jungle of the Yucatán Peninsula the ability to drive out the conquistadors. Because of this military tactical training the Mayan of the Quintana Roo region, (eastern jungle) had the advantage of never being completely subdued. It wasn’t until Méxican federal forces attempted to put down the protracted Caste War in the early 1900’s that this area became a territorial part of México.

A note: The protracted Caste War did not end here and that story is expanded upon in the next chapter.
Back to the Gonzalo Guerrero story: He left an enduring legacy with his newly adopted countrymen.
Next Gonzalo kills an alligator attacking his master and gains his freedom from slavery. He then engaged in the Mayan ritualistic custom of mutilation and tattooing that included piercing his ears and cheeks. These acts assimilated him into the Mayan way of life.
Gonzalo next took a Mayan princess named Zazil Ha as his wife, had three children and was granted temples of Ichpaatún north of Chetumal on the bay front, presently designated on maps as Oxtankah.

Chetumal Bay, Gonzalo’s newly acquired home site, had for thousands of years been a major route of commerce since the days of the ancient Chontal Maya because it linked their sea-going trade routes to rivers incorporating man-made canals. Lamanai is only one of the three most prominent Mayan settlements that remained continuously active through the post-classic period and even after European arrival that is linked by river/canal system into Chetumal Bay.

These seagoing Maya were from the Tabasco area. Tabasco has a huge extensive river system extending into the Guatemalan mountains and connecting to the Bay of Campeche in the Gulf of Mexico. The Chontal Maya developed far-reaching trade routes from their riverfront kingdoms using huge dugout cargo canoes.

An excerpt from the book The Earth Shall Weep: A History of Native America by James Wilson: Anthropologists point to the many similarities of belief, mythology and ceremony among different peoples as proof that, far from being becalmed in a kind of changeless, timeless prehistory, Native American societies were open, vital and dynamic, pragmatically accepting new cultural practices from each other. This appears to be borne out by the evidence of extensive trade networks, linking areas as far apart as present-day Mexico and Canada, which carried, presumably, not only materials and artifacts but people and ideas back and forth across the continent.

In Comalcalco, Tabasco, the land of the ancient Olmec Indians ancestors of the Mayan civilization and the cradle of American civilization is located the western most Mayan temples of the Chontal Maya, uniquely built of brick.

These Olmec ancestors of the Chontal Maya were the ones to discover chocolate, corn [maize], and the nixtamalization of it that unlocked its nutrients for human consumption and provided the abundance of sustenance that laid the foundation for this stand alone civilization to expand and excel in medicine, mathematics, and astronomy. They developed a maritime fleet of large sea going sailing canoes that ranged to all points around the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean Sea, and to South America. The Chontal were known as the “Phoenicians” of the new world. Products of their commerce included chocolate, copper, corn [maize], cinnabar, salt, rubber, and native medicines ranging from hallucinogenics to curatives uniquely discovered by them. More than twenty-five of their miraculous medications are still listed in the present Pharmacopoeia.

Their knowledge base and commerce were spread to all points of their trading territories. An example is their agricultural influence around the entire Gulf of Mexico, that flourished due to their influence. Corn, Squash, and bean, cultivation were exactly the same as that found all across Mexico. Remarkably the Indigenous surrounding the northern coast of the Gulf of Mexico not only replicated Mayan agriculture but actually began building pyramids. They engaged in the trade of copper mined on far away Lake Superior. The Chontal Mayan then traded the copper across their expansive trading territory.

July 30, 1502, Christopher Columbus during his fourth voyage arrived at the Bay Islands of Honduras. While exploring he spotted a large sailing trading canoe and approached. Columbus along with his crew members boarded and discovered this vessel to be a Maya trader from Yucatán, with elegantly clothed Mayan crew members, and an impressive shipment of quality merchandise. Columbus pillaged whatever took his interest and abducted the captain for an interpreter. The vessel was set free, and this became the first recorded encounter of Europeans with Chontal Maya.

A note: Christopher Columbus never did actually set foot on the North American continent though he is credited with its discovery.

In 1519 Hernán Cortés, the Spanish conqueror who had plundered the Aztec Empire, arrived at the island of Cozumel and attempted to rescue the two Spanish survivors, Geronimo de Aguilar and Gonzalo Guerrero from the Maya. Gonzalo Guerrero replied; “I married a Mayan woman, have three children, am chief and captain, taken their ways with tattoos, pierced ears and scared face…this is my place.”

Geronimo de Aguilar went with Cortés taking a job as translator.
Gonzalo’s fate would soon be determined in battle against these disgruntled vindictive Spanish Conquistador crusaders who would go to any extreme to stamp out anything or anyone not in accordance with their Spanish Inquisition crazed mentality.

Gonzalo’s temple home north of Chetumal was plundered by the conquistador Spanish, and a Catholic chapel constructed over it. A stone fortress of similar design to those found in St. Augustine, Florida, Havana, Cuba, and Campeche was begun. The San Juan Felipe fort began construction at nearby Bacalar but it was not completed for nearly two hundred years until the 1720s when its finishing was inspired by plundering pirates. After all the Spanish went through to steal all the Indigenous gold in the first place, they certainly didn’t want any one stealing it from them. These stone monuments exist to this day as a testament to the unrelenting Spanish Inquisition.

In spite of this Spanish incursion into the Caribbean Sea coast of Mayan territory, it would be nearly five centuries before the Spanish would dare to set foot or return to present day Quintana Roo.

The Catholic chapel at Oxtankah and stone fort at nearby Bacalar north of Chetumal stand to this day, and little is currently known of this monumentally historic story.

After the independence of Mexico, a change took place. Some Mexicans descendants of the conquerors now began to feel a real passion for the Mayan culture. From the Maya, one name that symbolizes the struggle in opposition to colonial imperialist power and the struggle for independent freedom was Gonzalo Guerrero.

Ultimately Guerrero would go from villain to hero and from traitor to a champion of freedom.
The Mayan ruins and Church at Oxtankah in the jungle north of Chetumal, Quintana Roo, Mexico, have been restored and memorialize this extraordinary man and his wife, Zazil Ha, the parents of the first mestizos. An adjacent lagoon in the area of the Oxtankah ruins near Bacalar bears his name.
On the prestigious Paseo de Montéjo in Mérida a monument now commemorates his memory. On the boulevard entering Chetumal a Gonzalo Guerrero memorial depicting Gonzalo, his wife Zazil Ha, and their three children sits atop a large pedestal These bronze monuments sculpted by Raul Ayala are also found on the Island of Cozumel and at Akumal, a tourist spot north of Tulum.

Note: A word about the Maya. There are at least twelve distinct Mayan groups that occupy the Yucatán area with a common language and similar cultural attributes. A common thread that bound them was their collective rule of land ownership. There were no land titles or profiting from land sales and the land belonged to those who worked it. People in need were provided for without question or exception. The different Maya factions have never been able to get along as a united nation, and therefore were easy for the Spanish Conquistadors to divide and conquer.

Note: A word about the Spanish. The people occupying the Iberian Peninsula are united and have been for centuries under the strick dictates of the  Roman Catholic church. Their doctrine of confession of sins and simple absolution instilled a mentality of bribery and graft that is ingrained in them. Indigenous people even after conversion to Catholicism were still unable to assimilate into this discriminatory system.

Another item that the Spanish Conquistadors couldn’t resist commandeering from the Maya was the extensive salt production of the Yucatán peninsula. Due to an anomaly of nature the north and northwestern coast of the Yucatán peninsula is semiarid six months of the year, and this coast is also surrounded by low barrier islands creating shallow bays ideal for the natural evaporation of sea water making the extraction of sea salt a natural industry. The Chontal Maya developed this labor intensive salt production into a lucrative commerce that they carried on for centuries.

The Spanish conquistadors found no gold or silver in Yucatán, but the sea salt production was a great substitute especially accompanied by the availability of free labor by the Indigenous Maya. That sea salt production continues to this day, though now it has become mechanized and corporate owned. When my wife and I first took up residence in Yucatán back in the 1980s several primitive Mayan sea salt evaporation operations were still in production along what was then known as the Coconut Coast of Yucatán.

Next we will take a look at the Prelude to the Caste War. 

Prelude to the Caste War, Chapter 2

Links to: The Maya, Mexico and Spanish Colonialism:

Introduction and Chapter 1.

Prelude to the Caste War, Chapter 2.

A Brief History of the Caste War, Chapter 3.

While the Caste War still Smoldered, the Mexican Revolutionary War Commenced, Chapter 4.

Juan Bautista Vega, Chapter 5.

Lázaro Cárdena's Years, Chapter 6.

Recommended Reading and Notable Authors.




Friday, September 20, 2013

Cozumel - September Getaway 2013



Jane’s latest book, Brule River Forest and Lake Superior, was just successfully published in paperback, digital and large print additions.
All our ducks were in a row and we slipped out of town dodging the unrelenting tropical waves and September low pressure troughs at the absolute peak of hurricane season. On again, off again black rain clouds mercilessly traversed the Yucatan.  
Traveling light included our German bicycle rain capes, [the same type used by British police.] and plastic covers for our packs. Folding bicycles and space age 6 ounce hammocks gave us freedom of movement and unparallel comfort. 
After a five hour bus trip from Merida, we arrived a 1 p.m. at Playa del Carmen, which is on Yucatan’s tropical Caribbean coast.
Twenty-five years ago the sleepy little fishing village of Playa del Carmen had but one claim to fame. It was the ferry landing for San Miguel on the island of Cozumel, 19 km. away in the Caribbean.
Today Playa has become a significant shopping and tourist destination with all varieties of accommodations ranging from five-star all inclusive to budget. A first time visitor may easily get the impression that they are on Spain’s Costa del Sol.
Rain squalls did us a favor; as luck would have it the bus terminal had a covered bench on the walking street just waiting for us and Jane had the fixings for a picnic lunch.
As we finished our lunch, the rain quit and we rolled away.
We rode north to check out some accommodation leads…we were not thrilled.
Plan B:
Another rain squall blackened the northern sky and we quickened our pace to the Cozumel ferryboat landing.
The squall tied with our convergence at the ferry pavilion waiting area and we were still dry.
We boarded the 3 p. m. ferryboat. It was nearly full and this is off season.
Our last visit to Cozumel was nearly ten years ago. The population is now over 100, 000.
In 1958 when Michel Peissel, ethnologist, explorer, and author, landed at Cozumel it was a different world.  In his book, The Lost World of Quintana Roo, he wrote:
“The Cuban revolution had also affected the coast, for in closing Cuba to American tourists Castro had opened up a boom on Cozumel Island. Three years earlier Cozumel had no hotel, and now I learned that four were in operation and two giant hostelries were under construction. There was a daily flight from Mérida to Cozumel, which had become but another name in the world of Caribbean resorts. The invasion of Cozumel by tourists was, I felt, the end of the Quintana Roo I had known.”
When Jane and I first explored the Caribbean coast of Yucatan in the mid 1980s Playa del Carmen had about a dozen single story thatched roof structures along the beach, and it was jungle all the way to the newly built road where there was a Pemex gasoline station…the only one between Cancun and Felipe Carrillo Puerto.  Today Playa del Carmen is a major tourist and shopping destination on an eight lane super highway with urban sprawl. 
The island of Cozumel has its appeal; crystal clear Caribbean waters, tropical temperatures, gentle trade winds, and fresh air.
A cast bronze sculpture depicting reef divers at the waterfront of San Miguel, Cozumel.
If a hurricane does not blow you away in September or October, this is paradise.
After crossing to Cozumel on the ferry, we followed a lead to Hostelito on 10th Avenue. We took their best room, the suite.  It had been a long day.  We could check out other places later.
In the following days, we checked out the good, bad and ugly; upscale and economy. We couldn’t find better.
With few exceptions the rental accommodations all have air conditioning and hot water. If there is one place on the planet you do NOT need these things, it is here in this balmy salubrious tropical climate where even rain storms are warm.* 


Our Mérida friend Tere Castro’s mother is from Cozumel. Tere told us we just had to try the market (Mercado Municipal Benito Juarez) food court located between Av. 20 and Av. 25 on Calle  Adolfo R. Salas. 

We found it extremely high-quality with a wide range of authentic Mexican food. Again we never found better. Their huge selection of salsas were tops.

Taqueria Molina is one of many market food court restaurants that open at 5 a. m. with a steady clientele of eager eaters who love the very best.
The people of Cozumel are an international jumble and no stereotype fits. They tend to be friendly, not pushy or high pressure, and generally eager to make a profit.  An example; Jane bought coffee for $14 pesos and I went for a refill fifteen minutes later and they wanted to charge $17 pesos…same cup same place. Tourists tend to be an easy mark.
Shopping is one of Cozumel’s attractions. Diamond, gold and silver plus tourist trinket shops abound and have a propensity to be upscale near the ferry landing.
Traffic is light and the drivers are mostly easy going. However, visitors in rentals think they own the roads and rules do not apply. Note: Your auto insurance is voided if you are drunk, breaking the law or drive off the pavement. The rental outfits hold your signed credit card voucher and all infractions and fines will be paid by you. Improperly parked vehicles may have their license plates removed or the car towed and impounded where the owner pays more charges. 
Public transport makes life in Mexico pleasanter.
Your options for rentals range from bicycles, motor scooters, jeeps, cars, and horse carriages. We travel by bicycle and bus using folding bikes.
Snorkel and scuba diving are the main draws of Cozumel. Sailboats, jet skis, paragliding, and glass bottomed boats are all there and more. The options are far too many to list here.
May and June are wonderful here with few tourists. Do not linger too long because when the June rains begin the mosquitoes can be unmerciful.
Summer is high season on all Mexican beaches.
September until mid-December is also a low tourist season. If you do not mind dodging rain squalls and the occasional hurricane then September until mid-November offers off-season advantages.
Cozumel web links:

*Note: Visitors from northern latitudes with painfully white skin never exposed to the sunlight and totally unaccustomed to the comfort of natural tropical living insist on air conditioning and hot water showers.
Mexicans do not tend to fix anything that is working and that includes air conditioners. As a consequence, the filters become lush breeding grounds for broadcasting pathogens that can be a serious health risk. A little paranoia can save your life. Drink bottled water, take care of your personal hygiene, and wash your hands.
Take the time to learn all of the uses of hammocks. You will be richly rewarded with a lifetime of convenient, comfortable and contented repose. 

Numerous monuments that comenirate the history of Cozumel and Mexico are scattered throughout the island.
Waterfront monument dedicated to Gonzalo Guerrero, his wife Zazil Ha and their three mestizo children.
This fascinating story actually begins with the birth of Gonzalo Guerrero back in the early 1470’s at Palos, Andalusia, Spain.
Trained as a military combatant he fought to drive the last of the Moors out of the Iberian Peninsula by 1492 ending eight centuries of Islamic occupation. Then he took up his next position of soldier/sailor on Columbus’s first ocean crossing expedition aboard the small open carvel vessel Niña.
In 1511 Gonzalo set sail in good weather from the Gulf of Darien on the Colombian coast of South America north bound with looted treasure and slaves.
What happened next is one of the worst nightmare stories that could happen to anyone.
Forty year old Gonzalo’s ship floundered and he was plummeted into the sea. Aboard a makeshift raft with no food or water, Gonzalo and the seventeen men and two women that survived the wrath of a hurricane that dismasted and sunk their ship drifted to the Yucatan Peninsula. Gonzalo and his shipmates were taken as slaves by the local Maya.
Gonzalo gained his freedom from slavery through an act of bravery.  He killed an alligator that was attacking his Mayan master.
Gonzalo Guerrero left a lasting legacy with his newly adopted countrymen.
Gonzalo took a Mayan princess named Zazil Ha as his wife and was given the temples of Ichpaatún north of Chetumal, presently designated on maps as Oxtankah. He then engaged in ritual mutilation and tattooing that included piercing his ears and cheeks. These acts assimilated him into the Mayan way of life.
For centuries Gonzalo Guerrero was despised by the Spanish for being a traitor, defector, and renegade. He was a man who had fought against his countrymen, turned his back on his land of birth, society, renounced his faith and denied Christ.
After the independence of Mexico from Spain, a change took place. Some Mexicans descended from the conquerors now began to feel a real passion for the Mayan culture. For the Maya, one name that symbolizes the struggle in opposition to colonial imperialist power and a struggle for freedom was Gonzalo Guerrero.
Monument commemorating the arrival of the Spanish. Replica of a Mayan temple on Cozumel’s waterfront commemorates the arrival of Spaniards Juan de Grijalva and  Hernán Cortés.
 The first Spanish expedition to visit Cozumel was led by Juan de Grijalva in 1518. In 1519, Hernán Cortés stopped by the island on his way to Veracruz.  
The Spanish commandeered the salt trade plus gold and gems. Next pirates looted the Spanish treasure fleets and the Spanish fortified their settlements for protection of their pillaged loot.

 Monument to Juan Bautista Vega, Av. Benito Juarez and Calle 120. A subdivision in Cozumel bears his name.
Juan Bautista Vega was born in Cozumel in 1884.  In 1896  Dr. Fábregas an adventurer and treasure hunter arrived in Cozumel with the intention of crossing to Tulum on the mainland of Quintana Roo.  The Chan Santa Cruz Mayas were in control in the area of Tulum.  They had been at war with the Mexicans since the Caste War that began in 1847.  Their “talking cross” had dictated that no whites should be allowed to enter their area.  With money as the lure, Dr. Fábregas succeeded in finding a boat and crew to make the crossing.  Eleven year old Juan Bautista Vega was one of the crew along with his stepfather and one other “white” from Cozumel.  The Chan Santa Cruz Maya, known as the Cruzoob, were on hand to welcome the visitors.  All were killed by the Cruzoob except young Juan who was taken prisoner.  When the Maya discovered that Juan could read Spanish, they decided he could be useful to them in negotiations with the Mexican government.  Juan was taught Maya and endeared himself to the Maya.  He lived among the Cruzoob, became a general in their militia, married a Mayan woman, and became a tribal chief.
The mainland of Quintana Roo remained an isolated and unexplored land because of the presence of the Cruzoob Maya. For over four hundred years the Mayas of Quintana Roo successfully repelled the Spanish and Mexican conquistadores until the last shots of the Caste War of 1847 rang out at Dzula in 1935.
Juan Bautista Vega was instrumental in brokering a lasting peace between the Mexican government and the Cruzoob Maya.   In 1926 Juan visited his “white” family in Cozumel but then returned to his Mayan home on the mainland and lived the rest of his life among the Maya.  Gen. Juan Bautista Vega died in 1969. 
Notable visitors to Cozumel
In 1842, explorer, author and anthropologist John L. Stephens arrived in Cozumel in a small coastal sailing vessel from Yucatan shortly after Mexican independence and before the protracted Caste War.  He became the first to chronicle Cozumel, Tulum, the Mayan temples, and wild jungle in the days of pirates in his 1843 two-volume publication Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. This excellent book is still in print and also available in digital addition free from Gutenberg Press.
In 1958, Michel Peissel wrote of Cozumel in his book, The Lost World of Quintana Roo:
But the smuggling is now very much reduced, and as an islander told me sadly, "One hardly lives on smuggling today." Occasionally a few small boats dump whisky and perfumes from British Honduras on the islands. In the old days Isla Mujeres and Cozumel had been thriving pirate stations; here the buccaneers would wait in ambush as slowly the Spanish galleons, weighted down with Peruvian gold, would beat their way up along the coast and through the Yucatan Straits on their way to Cuba and Spain from Panama.
Michel Peissel first arrived at Cozumel on a 45 foot sailing schooner. He wrote:
Judging from the rough weather that is characteristic of the straits between Cozumel and the coast, the dugout canoes of the Mayas must have been seaworthy craft and the oarsmen good sailors. From the summit of the waves I could catch a glimpse of the island which now appeared as a low gray streak on the horizon … At three o'clock we were up against the flat coastline of Cozumel and the small village of San Miguel came into sight. I was quite disappointed, for the village looked ugly, composed of an odd assortment of stone, cement, and wooden houses of various styles that were stretched along the waterfront.



Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Quintana Roo – The road from self-sufficiency


On a recent two month trip Jane and I became acquainted with the shopping in Tulum.
At the “Pool” produce/vegetable market, we found all under one roof things we scour Mérida for with its one million population.
Our curiosities led us to this story.
This diesel monster truck deadheads without cargo from Tulum to the Valley of Mexico, a distance of 1,000 miles or 1,500 kilometers in 30 hours, burning over 2,000 liters of fuel and returning with 28 tons of produce. This trip is made twice weekly in the high tourist season and only supplies the needs of one customer.
At the time Quintana Roo became a state there were no food imports and the people were completely self sustaining…that was 37 years ago.

By an ironic and twisted fickle turn of fate the Maya of Quintana Roo, México staved off the Spanish for 400 plus years because of one man, Gonzalo Gurerrero.
The Maya of Quintana Roo remained independent and self-sustaining. Land belonged to those who worked it…it was simple. Not like their Mayan brethren in adjacent Yucatán under the oppressive jack-boot of the “hacenderos” or Spanish hacienda owners who took their land, plundered their spiritual heritage and impoverished them into servitude.
Quintana Roo was a pristine tropical paradise abounding in seafood, dense tropical jungles of exotic flora and fauna and scarcely any infrastructure…that was then.   
October 8th, 1974, this all changed forever when Quintana Roo became the 30th state in México and the “federal land registry” established ownership with property perimeters.  When Quintana Roo first became a state it was seldom visited, had nearly no paved roads and tourism was unheard of outside of the newly created resort town of Cancún. Besides being undeveloped it was a smugglers paradise for clandestine merchandise that strangely found its way into Mexico by night.
Now the land grab would begin in earnest.   
Not until the 1970’s were highways built and Quintana Roo became recognized as one of the most beautiful resort areas in the world.
In 2011, just 37 years later, the pristine tropical forests have been stripped of their exotic timber; conch, lobster; reef fish and even the coral reef have been pillaged and plundered beyond restoration.
Infrastructure has arrived!
Airports, super highways, mega shopping malls, five star all-inclusive resorts, giant cruise ships queued up to disgorge thousands of visitors daily and land speculators, and hotel developers. Shopping plaza builders are bulldozing the jungle with no end in sight.  
Today the state is no longer self sustaining and exports are nearly non-existent.
© 2011 John M. Grimsrud